Adventurizing the. KTM 6. 90 Enduro RThis document contains pretty much all the modifications I’ve done to my KTM 6. Enduro R. I rode it for over 4. Wiring. The wiring on the bike needs a little extra protection. Most of it is pretty loose and naked just before the connectors. I guess that would not be such a problem on a road bike. However, add the vibrations of a thumper to sand and dust, and you’ve got yourself the equivalent of an army of little rodents teeth gnawing at the insulation. Eventually this will result in shorts and a lot of hassle. I just taped up the naked wires leading to the connector and sprayed all connectors with electrical vaseline. This is best done when the bike is new so you won’t be sealing the little sand particles inside the wiring. I wrapped the electrical tape around a small socket to reach the tight spots. I also added some MTB inner tube between the zip tie points to reduce the risk of abrasion under vibration. Complete list of every used motocross bike in the country that you can sort and filter. For over 35 years FMF has delivered superior power and performance to motorcycle enthusiasts around the globe. Engine Parts: Toykomods has over twenty years experience working and racing in the motorcycle industry we know what works. We choose to manufacture and sell only the. Wiseco FAQ's and answers to common questions when installing aftermarket engine components or accessories. Everything you ever wanted to know about motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, snowmobiles and personal watercraft. Motorcycle parts, motorcycle accessories by BikeBandit.com. We are the Web's most trusted source for oem motorcycle parts and aftermarket motorcycle parts and. Regulator rectifier. Some riders have had their OEM rectifier fail. It’s pretty rare but I didn’t want to take a chance. There are also other benefits with a MOSFET type regulator. So I replaced the OEM part with a Shindengen FH0. MOSFET regulator. The Shindengen FH0. OEM and bolts straight on. I added some connectors close to the regulator so it can be replaced quickly without removing the airbox. I added the same connectors to the OEM part so it can be used as a spare in case the Shindengen fails. The Shindengen produces 1. V on idle. Engine guard. I decided to go for the Rally Raid aluminium engine guard with tank by Rally Raid Products. The tank holds two liters, and I carry engine oil in it. I guess it’s normally used for water, but I prefer to keep my water in a Camel. Bak and need to carry engine oil on long trips, so this seemed like the logical place. The Engine guard seems sturdy enough but needed a little tinkering. The sharp edges of the aluminium plate were eating into the plastic tank. I bent them outwards a little and filed down the sharp edges. Some of the rubber bungs on the tank also needed a little extra glue. I also added some MTB inner tube between the guard and the tank in high abrasion areas. This document contains pretty much all the modifications I. I rode it for over 40 000 km without failures on the trails. T he history of the Yamaha YZ250 is the history of motocross in America. No other machine was the platform for so many world-shaking innovations. Other than that, it seems solid. Now perfected with a Rally Raid sticker. Silencer. The stock silencer is heavy and gets very hot in use, so I replaced it with a lovely Akrapovic. In addition to fixing the afore mentioned issues, the Akrapovic improves the smoothness of the bike. Airbox. Sealing the air filter to the airbox has been a bit of an issue on some bikes, including mine. I greased the bottom of the connecting lip on the air filter after noticing dust in my airbox. It still didn’t seal completely. Apparently this is due to the warping of the airbox under vacuum. It just isn’t rigid enough to stay in form under the vacuum of high revolutions. The airbox will give in a little and let air slip in between the filter and airbox lip. I ended up replacing my paper filter with a High Flow Unifilter. This should do the trick as the pressure difference between ambient pressure and airbox pressure should be reduced. The Unifilter also has a higher seal which should help. I changed the stock air filter cover to a KTM EVO- 1 cover. It raises the air intake higher up, which is crucial in water crossings. It does make the engine sound very loud for the rider. I can’t even hear the exhaust due the induction noise. Sprockets. Stock gearing is very tall on the KTM 6. Enduro R. No doubt with road use in mind. I’ve changed a 5. I’m riding. This will make the bike more manageable in technical stuff and also help save the clutch a little. Bearings. The bearings that I’ve had the most water penetration and wear in have been in the sprocket carrier, the triangle lever, the bottom of the rear shock and the swing arm. The wheel bearings seem to last forever but I still change them annually along with any others that are filled with grime or have play in them. Before installing the bearings I take off their dust covers on both sides and pack the bearings with Mobilgrease XHP 2. I also regularly cleaned and greased the steering stem bearings and pull rod bearings. Rear indicators. These are very fragile and right where your boot goes when getting on and off the bike. Mine didn’t last a week and I replaced them with mini LED: s. Tail fender. The EU tail fender is inpractical and looks terrible. I took it off and gave the short tail fender a little heat gun and bent it down to a legal angle. The registration plate holder bolts straight onto the fender. The EU registration plate is roughly the size of a pizza box. It doesn’t last long while riding soft stuff. Especially swamps will kill it quickly with a spray of turf. Both our plates broke during our test run. I will mount a small showplate for Eastern Dirt 1. Suspension. The OEM suspension does a nice job on gravel roads, but I wanted more travel. So I went for the Rally Raid Fork Extension Kit and Tractive Suspension Rallye Shock from Rally Raid Products. The OEM travel was was raised by 5. The front shocks were revalved by Ari Nurmela, the suspension guru from MP Racing, who’s done the suspension for several Finnish enduro world champions. I was a little sceptical about the fork extension but it performed well enough for me. Especially after Ari did his magic on it. The Rallye Shock is incredible. I was really impressed with it during our test runs. It just seems to go forever and no matter what kind of ruts and ditches you take on the rear wheel, it just remains smooth and composed. We had roughly 3. Luggage. The superiority of soft luggage on these kinds of trips is well argued by Walter Colebatch. I couldn’t agree more, and also ride with Adventure Spec Magadans. I used to prefer to have them the wrong way around though, with bottle pockets facing backwards. This way I could keep my extra gloves and rain gear in the front pockets, without them getting too dirty. On long trips where I need to carry bottles for engine oil and air filter oil, I keep the bottle pockets in the front. I’ve added bungee loops on the pockets to secure the bottles. As for luggage racks, my money is on Rally Raid soft luggage racks, which I’ve said before. You do have to be careful with the RR racks though after falls, because they do bend. This is a design feature though, as the plastic deformation of the steel rack absorbs a lot of energy, instead of allowing it to pass directly to the mounting nuts on the plastic rear tank. While it’s a good thing in keeping the tail tank in one piece, the bottom of the rack will hit and chafe the swing arm eventually. So make sure to bend them back to shape after tumbles. I use normal cargo straps with metal fasteners to secure the panniers to the racks. I used to have them lower, which resulted in the left hand pannier making contact with the side stand. This resulted in minor abrasions. The bike was felt a little more unpredictable in terms of handling as the luggage could swing a little while hanging low. There was also very little clearance for boots and in technical terrain I kept getting my foot caught between an obstacle and a pannier. So I raised the panniers higher up and further back. I’ve added pics of the strap connections. The key is to avoid contact with the sharp edges of the perforated holes on the rack plate. They’ll eat through the cargo webbing in three to four hours thanks to the vibrations of the LC4. So I use hitches and loop the webbing between the bike and the rack plate. The front connection point on the horizontal strap has a sharpish edge but due to the hitch, it can’t move around and has survived thus far. I want to have a hitch on the vertical strap too, so that I can tighten the strap upward, relieving weight off the velcro straps over the seat. I keep the velcro straps very loose to make sure the weight of the luggage is on the racks, and not on the seat. This keeps the center of gravity lower and improves handling. The placement of the perforated holes isn’t perfect, which results in a little sideways pull on the vertical strap. It should survive, though. I use a Giant Loop Fandango tank bag. It’s a little too big for my taste, but it has enough room for everything. I’ve ran a wire with a cigarette lighter socket into the bag. It gives me the option to charge camera batteries, cell phone, satellite phone in addition to holding road snacks and a DSLR with lenses. I’m into my second Fandango, as both of the lid zippers on the first one failed catastrophically in Siberia. I was probably too ham fisted and told the seller, Adventure Spec, about it but they still replaced it. Fuel filler cap. The OEM filler cap neck is very low. Fueling after some dirt circus will probably result in crud entering the fuel tank. The lock on the OEM fuel cap is pretty stiff and probably will get even stiffer during use. The key on the other hand is very thin. I didn’t fancy either of the mentioned issues and replaced it with the Rally Raid filler neck and Acerbis breather cap. Tank and subframe bolts. The OEM tank and subframe bolts have been known to fail under stress. I replaced mine with the Rally Raid Lower tank mounting bolts and subframe bolts. Fuel. Capacity, filtration and injection. I originally had just the OEM tank and a Rally Raid 4. That setup gave me fuel capacity of 1. It’s just not enough, so I added the Rally Raid EVO- 2 front tanks for a total fuel capacity of 2. Optimally, this should give me a range of 5. Getting enough fuel onboard is one thing but keeping it usable is another. The main fuel filter is inside the OEM fuel tank so I added another filter after the Rally Raid tanks and an extra filter before the injector. That filter only filters whatever is in the Rally Raid tanks, so I also added a filter between the main tank and injector. Now all fuel is filtered twice before hitting the injector. Preparing for this, I’ve replaced the OEM Philips screws with the Rally Raid Injector Hex screw kit for easier and reliable access.
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